Sunday, July 22, 2018

BATANES: BATAN


Batanes has always been on top of my list of places to visit.  With more and more airlines flying to Basco, reaching Batanes has been easier.   Regular airfare though would still hit sky high but there are times when tickets are on promo, dropping to as low as half the regular price or even lower. One would just have to be alert and patient enough to catch this airfare drop.  This being said, I was lucky enough to snag a ticket on promo to Basco. And my long overdue escapade to Batanes finally happened.

Mt. Itbayat as viewed from PAGASA weather station
Batanes is the northernmost province of the Philippines. It is the smallest province in terms of land area and population.  It is a group of islands with Batan, Sabtang and Itbayat inhabited. Other smaller islands are uninhabited. Basco is the capital located in Batan island.  Other municipalities are Mahatao, Ivana, Uyugan, Sabtang and Itbayat. Natives of Batanes are called Ivatans. Laguages spoken are Ivatan and Itbayaten. For detailed information on Batanes, click this link https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Batanes.

I was with friends Bets and Ajim in this trip. We spent four and a half days in Basco and two and a half days in Sabtang.  Original plan was to visit the main islands of Batan, Sabtang and Itbayat. However we did not push through with Itbayat.  We arrived in Basco shortly after 12 noon via Philippine Airlines from Clark International Airport.  All three of us are from Manila.  We took the P2P bus originating from Trinoma. May I just say that we liked it for its convenience. Travel time was approximately 2 hrs.  It was just like going to NAIA with the terrible traffic.  Now I would personally consider flying out from CIA.  

Valugan boulder beach
Upon arrival in Basco, we dropped by the tourism booth within the airport premises to register. We paid 300 pesos environmental fee and was given a map of Batanes. (The environmental fee is mandatory for all tourist.  Keep the map for it is needed when visiting the tourist spots.)  Right after, we walked to Marfel lodge a few meters away from the airport to check-in.  After our late lunch, we strolled the town proper where important landmarks are located like the provincial capitol, municipal hall, the town's church and public plaza.  Then by late afternoon, we made a short hike to Naidi hill to visit the lighthouse and watch the sunset.  No incredible sunset though as monsoon clouds obscured it. Nonetheless, we still enjoyed the sea breeze and the view from the top of the hill where the whole town of Basco can be seen and the surrounding strikingly beautiful landscapes and seascapes.

North Batan Tour
We are supposed to sail to Itbayat on day 2 but all boat trips for the day were suspended due to rough seas.  To maximize our time, we did the North Batan tour.  It took almost a half day to complete the tour.  We hired a tricycle and paid 1,500 pesos for the whole tour. Places visited were: Tukon church, PAGASA weather station, Fundacion Pacita, Japanese WW2 tunnel, Boulder beach, Naidi hill and lighthouse and Vayang Rolling hills.

Fundacion Pacita
South Batan Tour
Boat trips to Itbayat were still suspended on day 3.  After the free breakfast courtesy of our lodge, we did the South Batan tour.  Kuya Dale was still our trike driver/tourguide.  Places visited were: Chawa viewdeck, Mahatao boat shelter, San Carlos Borromeo church, Homoron blue lagoon, Maydangeb white beach, Spanish bridge, House of Dakay, San Jose El Obrero church, House of Dakay, Motchong viewpoint, Alapad Pass, Songsong ruins, Racuy-a-payaman and Tayid lighthouse.  It took us a day to complete the tour which covered other towns of Batan island.  It was raining hard in the morning but when we got to the south-eastern part of the island, it was sunny.  When we arrived at the last two stops, Malboro hills and Tayid lighthouse it was cloudy. We paid 2,000 pesos for the tour.

Malboro Hills
Biking around Batan
On our last day, I had an opportunity to bike around the island of Batan.  Bikes for rent were available on a number of shops.  I rented a mountain bike for 50 pesos an hour.  The weather was fine, just perfect for a bike ride.  I can't remember the last time I ride a bike so I wasted no time and started the road journey alone.  My companions went biking as well but just around Basco.  I followed the South Batan tour route stopping on the very same spots.  Biking around the island is easier said than done.  It was tiring especially the uphills and the downhills were scary.  I had to be extra careful because one wrong move I'd surely end up bruised or even worse.  There were times when I got off because it was just hard going up especially at high noon and early afternoon when the sun was at its mightiest.  It was the scenic views that kept me going.  I made it back to Basco around four in the afternoon and per my strava I covered 42 kilometers.  I could have continued to Vayang rolling hills but I was already too exhausted.
  
Tayid Lighthouse
Batanes is indeed a majestic place.  Its landscapes and seascapes are truly breathtaking.  It had this calming and relaxing effect.   Everywhere i looked at, there was just immense beauty.  I must say that if you had the chance to visit Batanes, do not think twice.  It is all worth it!

Things worth noting:

1. There is cellphone signal including internet in Basco while none in other parts of Batan.
2. There are banks and ATMs in Basco (Landbank & PNB).  
3. There are number of lodges, inns and homestays in Basco but it is always best to have an advance reservation.
4.  Food in Basco is a bit pricy but there a number of canteens and cafes to choose from.
5.  Always bring protection from the sun.  It's hot when it's sunny in Batanes.
6. Arranging a tour on the spot is easy.  Your hotel/lodge/inn will offer tours or help arrange tour.
7.  If solo, renting a bike (assuming you know how to ride a bike) is an option (cheaper) to go around Batan and even Sabtang.
8.  There are few canteens in Sabtang and also closes early.

  
  





Monday, December 4, 2017

Guimaras

I have long been wanting to cross out Guimaras on my list of "to be visited provinces".  It did not happen until Nov. 30, 2017.  Taking advantage of the holiday, I finally able to set foot on this tiny island province via Iloilo.  From Ortiz wharf in Iloilo city, I took  a very short boat ride of approximately 20 minutes to Jordan the capital town.  Just a bit of history, Guimaras was once a sub-province of Iloilo until it gained status as full-pledge province, May of 1992. 

Upon arrival at Jordan's wharf, I dropped by the tourism office (located within the wharf's compound) to register.  The staff were accommodating and helpful.  They gladly showcased what the province has to offer for visitors - that is inland and island tours.  I did not avail though of the tours offered and decided to go first to Cabugan Adventure Resort in Nueva Valencia where I stayed.   I asked advice on how to reach Nueva Valencia (one of the towns of Guimaras and where most resorts are located) and  commuting using public transportation was more practical. Hiring a private vehicle was far more expensive for alone traveler.
calm and green

Going to Nueva Valencia was easy.  Jeepneys that ply the route were stationed just outside the wharf's compound.  The driver did not wait for the jeepney to get fully loaded and left immediately but it made a complete stop at the market place to wait for more passengers.  After almost an hour on the road, I got off at crossing-lucmayan.  From this point, I need to ride a motorcycle to get to the jump-off of the resort at sitio Dungca-an in Brgy. Tando .  Road condition from Jordan to Nueva Valencia was not a problem.   It was cemented with some really nice view along the way.

All the while I thought that the resort was accessible by foot.  I was wrong. A small boat brought me to the resort through a narrow mangrove area before emerging into a lagoon and into a group of islands where the resort was located.  The resort location was a thumbs up for me.  I liked how it was nestled in an island with lush forestry and surrounded by calm waters.  The hut where I stayed was located on the other side of the island facing a lagoon with magnificent view of the sunrise and nearby islands.

one of the coves
I did not have an itinerary for the day but I had island hopping in mind.  Good thing, the resort offered an island hopping tour at a very affordable price.  I did not think twice and hopped at the boat and the next thing I know I was on our first stop.  I was keeping my expectation low but as I hopped from one stop to another I can't hide my amazement.  The islands, beaches, coves and some caves by the sea on that side of Guimaras were unassumingly beautiful.  It can actually compete with Caramoan and even El Nido and Coron but Guimaras has a charm of its own.  Another plus factor  was the absence of large crowds.  In fact,  most of the times I had the islands, coves, and caves all to myself.  What supposed to be a three-hour tour ended two hours longer.  It was already dim when we returned to the resort.

Aside from me, there were two other guests in the resort.  Basically, it was just the three of us and resort's staff on the island.  During the night, no other sound can be heard except that of birds and insects.  I stayed for while on a cabana by the lagoon just outside my hut to adore the full moon but fell asleep early upon hitting the bed maybe because it was so quite or maybe because I was tired from my island hopping.  I must admit though, that was one of the most peaceful night I ever had.       

clear water
It was time for me leave Guimaras the next day.  Before heading back to Jordan, Kuya Jojo, the boatman brought me to a nearby Tudyong cave.  From its entrance, the cave seemed small but upon entering I was surprised how huge it was.  It was a sanctuary to thousands of bats and there was also a water source inside.  We had not gone deep into its many chambers but kuya Jojo told me that it would take us more time to explore the entire cave.  That short time we had in the cave left me in admiration and Tudyong cave was just one of the many caves found in the island.  There was more to Guimaras aside from beautiful islands, beaches, coves and sweet mangoes!

One day was not enough to get around and have a taste of Guimaras.  I was not able to go on an inland tour.  I failed to have a taste of what Guimaras is known for -  the sweetest mangoes.  Sadly, it was not a season for mangoes.  I would definitely consider returning some other time because I still have good reasons to go back and there is more to Guimaras that I have yet to discover and experience.  
the stunning sunset

Sharing my travel notes below.