Mt. Kinabalu

I have this impression that climbing Mt. Kinabalu is expensive.  Accounts of friends who made it there were clear on how high the expenses for travel, accommodation, food, and climbing related fees if summed up.  This would mean that I have to save some more and wait a little longer.  However, one day I stumbled into a blog telling that a dayhike is possible and permitted.  The blog entry continued to detail how to obtain the climb permit and how much the entire climb costs.  Elated after learning all these information, I booked a flight without hesitation.  The next thing I know I was in Kota Kinabalu joined by my friend Adrian with the intention of dayhiking Malaysia's tallest mountain.

Kinabalu Park Headquarter 

Convincing Power Failed

With high hopes we entered Kinabalu Heretage Park,  heading straight to the visitor's lounge. We conveyed to the staff our intention to do a one day climb.  She was quick in turning us down, telling that a new park regulation on "No More Dayhike" has been in effectivity a month ago.  I was crushed! We pleaded but she referred us to the park ranger on duty.  They were singing the same tune but an option was offered by the park ranger.  A two-day climb staying overnight at the newly built resthouse called Lamaine at a lower price to which we did not resist nor agree at first.  We told him that we'd give the offer a thought over lunch and will come back.
  

Timpohon Gate

After our lunch we headed back not to the visitor's lounge but to the park's admin office. Unfortunately, the park administrator was not around.  Nevertheless, we told his secretary of our intention and that we hoped for a favorable response from the park administrator.  Since the secretary can't decide for her boss she then referred us to the office of the senior park ranger, our last hope.  How unfortunate it was that again the person we're looking was not around.  He was in KL attending a convention.  His staff however was accommodating and tried her best to help us. However, they were strict with the new regulation and we had no other options but to succumb to the two-day climb. 



The Journey to Labanrata

Since we will doing a two-day climb, we decided to start by ten in the morning.  By this time most of the climbers already started their ascent.  After settling all climbing fees, we were ready to start when two French men arrived and asked to join us.  It would mean splitting the guide and transportation fees to the four of us.  And so we agreed of course!

The French guys on one of the staircases

By 10:20 am we were at Timpohon gate, the starting point of the climb.  This gate can be reach either by walking or by riding a car from the visitor's information center.  We did the latter to save time. The start of the trek involved a gradual ascent and after passing the Carlson Fall, staircase ensued. By 10:48 am, we reached KM 1 and from this point onward it has been mostly assaults and staircases.   We encountered a number of climbers on their way down and we also passed by climbers resting on some of the resting stations. It was sunny when we started but as we progress it turned cloudy and foggy.  Though it would not have been much of a challenge had it been sunny all the way since there were trees to provide shade. 
   

just one of the beautiful spots along the trail

By 12:40 pm we were at KM 4, two more kilometers before Labanrata, our final stop for day 1.  The massive gain of elevation had me sweating profusely.  We continued our ascent  and passed by on more hikers.  Dwarf trees along the trail also caught my attention while the two French were ahead of us and no longer in sight.    After 3.5 hours of trekking, we finally reached Labaranta (KM 6).  Our guide took us to Lamaine resthouse where we will be staying.  It has been cloudy for the rest of the day and even drizzled at times and at 3, 270 masl it was cold.  Good thing, hot food and beverages are available at Labanrata.   Not for free though.

at KM 4

Labanrata

The Assault to Low's Peak.

We agreed to start the assault by 4 am.  Our group were at the meeting place as early as 3:30 am, however, our guide was no where to be found.  We waited a little longer but he seemed to be still comfortably sleeping.  Almost all the group had started their way up. Worried that we might not catch the sunrise, we decided to go even without him. Anyway, the trail towards the summit was clear and we can follow the climbers ahead of us.  

the boulders and the summit plateau

The summit was 2 kilometers away from Labanrata.  Seemed short of a distance but the elevation gain of 825 masl  and the biting cold were really a challenge.  The trail towards the summit were mostly staircases.  There were also some rope segments before reaching the gate at KM 7 and another one at the summit plateau where our guide caught with us. The last part of the climb was on boulders of granite rocks bearing the 4,095 masl marker at the top. 

the sunrise

There were already a handful of folks at the summit eagerly waiting for the sunrise when we arrived.  It was so cold that my hands were numb.  I was praying for the sun to come out so that the temperature will somehow improve.  But I guess we arrived a little early that we have to wait a little longer.  I was thinking to go down but I can't afford to not witness the sunrise.  To my mind, I traveled long, I paid for the climb, I made it to the top, why would I let myself bothered by the cold. With mind conditioning, I was able to withstand the cold and witness the beautiful sunrise.  Standing on Malaysia's tallest mountain and witnessing the beauty that surrounded it was just awesome.  It was all worth it!  We stayed for about 30 minutes longer taking pictures.  

us at the marker

The Descent

Our way down from Low's peak to Labanrata was smooth and swift stopping occasionally at some parts of the trail that interested us.  It was still dark on our way up so we took the opportunity on our way down to take photos.  By 8 am, we're back at Labanrata and had a hearty breakfast.  At exactly 9 am, we left Labanrata and started our descent.  On our way down, we encountered climbers and porters on their way up.  We also chanced upon the Filipino crew of Living Asia Channel who did a shoot at the summit.  The crew filmed us while trekking and did a short interview.  If it was aired, we had no idea.  By 11 am we reached the Timpohon gate. We took souvenir photos before riding back to the headquarter.  

South Peak

Post Climb Realizations

We had no regrets taking the two-day climb.  In fact, it was a blessing in disguise as weather would turn awful in the afternoon during our stay.  The chance of us getting a good clearing had we done it dayhike would have been very slim.  While dayhiking would have been a fit but I'm not sure if we would have enjoyed it, even the two day climb was not easy.  We had our eyes down and knees up most of the time.  Dayhiking would have been more exhausting for sure.  

Overall it was a successful climb.  An adventure that I will surely treasure my entire life. A dream that has turned into a reality.  Thanks to my climbing buddy Adrian.  Thanks to God for the strength and guidance.   

another beautiful spot along the trail

Climb Expenses 

Permit                              -   100.00 rm
Accommodation                -   100.00 rm
Food                                 -    30.00  rm
Guide fee (37.5/4)            -     37.05 rm
Transportation (33/4)        -      8.25 rm
Insurance                          -      7.00 rm

Total (per head)                    282.75 rm

in pesos (282.75*16)              P4,524 


Tips

1.  Booking your climb directly at Mt Kinabalu Park would cost lower than booking through tour operators.
2.  Climb during lean months to avoid influx of climbers.
3.  Same day booking and climb is possible if you arrive at the park early.
4.  There are a number of inns and lodges outside the park which would cost you lower than staying inside the park.
5.  There are good restaurants just outside the park which are affordable.
6.  There are no money changer inside and outside the park.



   


  

Mt. Pulag

Finally it happened! I have climbed the so called playground of Gods and the country’s third highest mountain – Mt. Pulag.  This is after a couple of failed attempts late last year and early this year.  Well, it was worth the entire wait! The invitation came from my friend Adrian which I responded to with a yes instantly.  We were also joined by Rosalyn and Analene on this climb.  We invited other friends but are not available on the date of the climb.   The final participants were the four of us and we’re reunited once again (have climbed with the three in Mt. Rinajani).

Day 1 (Akiki jump-off to Saddle camp)

We arrived in Baguio City on board a Dagupan bus dawn of Aug. 15, 2014.  We wasted no time and went straight to a nearby eatery for a quick breakfast.  Right after eating, we then proceed to the transport terminal (Baguio Old Slaughterhouse).   It was agreed beforehand that we’ll completely rely on public transportation.  Hiring a jeepney or a van would be too expensive for four persons.    Upon getting to the terminal, we took a van plying Baguio-Kabayan route that left the terminal at around 7:30 am.  After one stop and about 3.5 hours of travel we arrived at the Akiki jump-off in Brgy. Duacan, Kabayan.   We were met by our guide Kuya Crispin and he ushered us to the Akiki Ranger Station where we did the registration.  We paid the climbing fees (registration, camping, and green fees) which totaled 230 pesos each.    There was a short briefing given to us on what to expect on the trail and the dos and don’ts during the entire climb.  At around 11:00 am, our trek commenced. 

at one of the stops

The initial part of the trail was easy until reaching the Eddet river.  We did not have a hard time negotiating it. In fact, we were pre-occupied with taking pictures here and there.  It took us 1.5 hours to get to the river.  We had our lunch at the resting station.  After an hour, our trek resumed.  There was a sudden change in weather.   It started to drizzle after we cross the bridge requiring us to wear our ponchos.  It was also at this point of the climb where the steep trail started and it has been steep all the way up to the grassland.   I was amazed by the Pine forest along the trail engulfed with mist making it more scenic that at one point I was expecting for some wolves to come out.  I also wondered how it looks like during sunny days.  We had several rest stops before arriving at Malboro country around 4:15 pm.  It was still drizzling and the temperature starting to drop.  We stayed for a while at the resting station and consumed some trail foods.

at the pine forest

The trek continued and we entered into the montane forest.  As we went deeper into the forest, the cold temperature started to bite as well as the weight of my backpack.  There was nothing much to see inside the forest as it was already dim.  By 5:30 pm, we reached the last water source.  We refilled our water bottles and rested for a while.  Conversations were limited and smiles hardly seen, a proof that we’re all tired.   After more than 2 hours we came out of the forest into a grassland.  It was a relief knowing we’re nearing the end of our trek.  The final hour however, was the hardest part simply because we’re all exhausted.   We had to endure the darkness, the drizzle, the strong wind, and the cold temperature while negotiating in a slow pace the steep part and rolling trail of the grassland.   After trekking for almost 8 hours, we reached the saddle camp with excitement.  Much to our surprise, the camping area and the bunkhouse were empty.   There were no other groups but us.   We opted to stay at the bunkhouse and it was a big relief to us.  Our exhausted bodies no longer need to pitch tents on a dark, cold, and rainy evening.    After changing into dry clothing, we prepared our dinner.  A mushroom soup, salted egg, and chicken-pork adobo filled our hungry stomach.  By 10 pm, we called it a night.  No socials, all just wanting to rest. 

Day 2 (Sunrise viewing, Exit via Tawangan)

We woke up at around 4am of day 2.  We need to be at the summit as early as possible in anticipation of the sunrise.   Mt. Pulag is famed because of its sunrise over a sea of clouds.  We left the bunkhouse several minutes after we had our breakfast.  The assault to the summit took around 30 minutes from the bunkhouse.  We made it all at the summit by 6 am. There were also other climbers (from camp 2) already at the summit eager to witness the sunrise.   However, it was a gloomy morning.  No sunrise.  No sea of clouds.  I was a bit sad.   I was expecting a good weather.  I was expecting to see what Mt. Pulag is famous of.  Others at the summit may not be vocal but I knew they share my feelings.    Minutes after, I came to realize and accept the fact that in mountaineering it’s not always a good weather but there’s always another chance.  I can always go back when it’s best season to climb Mt. Pulag.  After these realizations, I joined my group and we made the most out our Mt. Pulag experience.  To have successfully climbed the country’s third highest mountain is enough reason to be happy.  The mountain still offered a scenic view despite the poor weather condition.  The mountain itself with its mist-shrouded dwarf bamboos was still a sight to behold.

at the summit

with the dwarf bamboos

At 7 am, we stated our descent via the tawangan trail.  As we’re making our way down, it started to drizzle.   Our guide told us that it will be a long journey but no more assaults unlike the day before.  We entered the mossy forest at around 8am.  Some parts of it were so dense that it felt like we’re in another dimension.  Some parts of the trail were concealed by over grown shrubs and foliage proving how less-taken it is.   What really bothered us was the high population of blood leeches (limatik) in most parts of the trail.  The trail was heavily infested that we almost consumed a bottle of alcohol combating with them.  We’re all got bitten still. 

descent to Tawangan

limatik bite

We stopped by the third water station (a stream) to have our lunch.  Had it been a sunny day, I could have taken a dip.  However, it was raining and the water was so cold.   At around 1 pm, we continued our descent inside the seemingly endless forest.  The rain was getting harder while the fog engulfed the surroundings leaving a somewhat eerie feeling on me.  By 3pm, we came out of the forest and had our first glimpse of the village we’re heading to.   After 8.5 hrs. of trekking, finally we reached Tawangan village.  We had to stay overnight at the village because of bad weather. 

the mossy forest

Day 3 (The journey back to Manila)

We woke up early to catch the only bus bound for Baguio from Tinoc, Ifugao which usually leave 7:30 am.  From Tawangan, Benguet, it was an hour motorcycle (habal-habal) ride to Tinoc, Ifugao.   Upon arriving at Tinoc, unfortunately the bus was not roadworthy and can’t go on with the scheduled trip.  We looked for other options as we all need to go back to Manila.  However, vans plying Tinoc-Lagawe route were all reserved by other passengers.  The last option for us was to wait for trucks (from Tawangan) that deliver vegetables (to Nueva Vicaya).  Luckily, the driver of the habal-habal had a contact to a driver of one of the trucks.  However, we had to wait for almost six hours before the truck arrived.  Travel time from Tinoc, Ifugao to Bangbang, Nueva Viscaya was 5 hours with almost 80% of the way was on a rough road over a mountain.  The view was breathtaking and scary at the same time.  Sitting on sacks of carrots while on a long bumpy ride is very uncomfortable but we had to endure just to get home.   We reached Bangbang by 7pm and had our quick dinner at a fast-food before boarding a bus back to Manila. 

The whole experience while very tiring was worth it.   We may not have a good weather but still it was very rewarding.  Mt. Pulag (from Akiki to Tawangan) is still beautiful even in an awful weather.  Truly a must climb mountain.

the flora

just lovely