Northern Escape: Batad

This is actually a trip long overdue.   I've been planning this a couple of times but couldn't get the right timing.  When a long weekend loomed, I packed my bag and head on to this UNESCO Heritage site and Ifugao's pride - Batad Rice Terraces.

After a brief but action packed visit of Maligcong, I boarded the 9 am jeepney the next day to Bontoc hoping to catch the 10:30 am van going to Banaue, Ifugao.  It was a Sunday, so I was expecting that transportation would be a challenge.  Apparently, it was not.  The van had just to wait a little longer for more passengers.  We left the terminal with only six of us on a 16 - seater van.  

It was past noon when I arrived in Banaue.  From where I got off, the jeepney bound for Batad was already in sight.  Upon inquiry, 3 pm was the scheduled time of its depart.  It would mean more than 2 hours waiting if I'm taking it.  A man approached me from no where ( I guess he heard my conversation with the driver) and offered a ride to Batad by his motorcycle.  Before I could ask how much would I pay for the fare, we were already on the road to Batad.  

as viewed from the registration site

Actually, my initial plan was to walk from Banaue to Batad.  I thought of it as part of my training for some running events.  However, it was a different story when I got to Banaue. It was high noon and the sun was in its mightiest.  Much as I wanted to walk, it was just too hot.  While riding the motorcycle, I was thankful I decided otherwise.  The road to Batad while cemented had much of elevation gain.  It would have surely left me catching breath while regretting under the intense heat of the sun.

After an hour, we arrived at the saddle - the end of the road.  From the saddle, a short walk had to be done to reach Batad village.  I actually liked the walk because it was under trees and as I progressed the beauty of Batad was gradually revealed.  It made me even more excited.   Until finally, I laid my eyes, my first glance on what I came for.  Before me, was the Ifugao's pride, a UNESCO heritage site, the amphitheater-like Batad rice terraces.  WOW was the only world that came out of my mouth.  I was standing with eyes glued at it for minutes.  It was fascinating in pictures but it was even more fascinating seeing it personally.  I was blown away by its beauty that I almost forgot I hadn't taken lunch.

Sir Vincent, a resident of Batad and a local guide approached me.  He helped me arranged my lodging and my activities for the afternoon.  He ushered me first to Rita's Mount View Inn where I had my lunch.  For my lodging, I told him that I want to stay on a native house they called the "no nail house".   He brought me to Ugay Lodge, a native house which had a good view of the terraces.

Batad Rice Terraces - UNESCO Heritage Site

After leaving my stuff at the native house, I began my activity for the afternoon.  Our first stop was the highest point where the entire rice terraces can be seen an obscured. With sir Vincent on the lead, we passed through some households and later on finding ourselves scaling the terraces.  I can't believe I was walking on it.  It was just surreal! Our trek continued until eventually reaching the view point.  The view was magnificent!   Basking on the mid-afternoon sunshine, the an obscured view of the rice terraces looking like a stairway was a sight to behold with the mountains surrounding, adding more beauty. 

From the view point, it was a steep descent to our next destination the Tappia Falls. While negotiating the terraces, I can't help but wonder how the indigenous people of Cordillera built it.  Surely, a lot of effort was put to carve such on the side of the mountain.  I wondered also how long it took them which according to sir Vincent, all was done without an aid of a machinery. The rice terraces aged 2000 years old, so by then it was primitive.  It was just amazing how they were able to adapt to the kind of environment they're living in.  

as viewed from the highest point

Tappia falls, was I think the lowest point in Batad.  Concrete steps were built for every tourist convenience.  Resting stations were present too.  Most tourists were already on their way back from the falls.  I encountered a couple on their nearly senior years.  They were having a hard time on the concrete steps going up.  The trek to the falls is not for the faint-hearted.  It will have your sweat glands working and your heart pounding. However, as they always say challenging journey always lead to a beautiful destination. And this is so true with Tappia Falls!  

Hearing the cascade of the water signaled that we're almost there.  True enough, after a couple of steps, I saw a surging and plunging water from a mountain.   We are at our final stop, the Tappia falls.  No more tourist hanging but us.  We stayed for a couple of minutes to savor the moment and regain strength.  Had we arrived earlier I would have taken a dip, however, the water was already freezing cold. I had to be contented watching its waters thundering down.   

Going back was a challenge.  Negotiating the steep concrete steps going up to the rice terraces was tiring!  I just thought of it as part of my training to get the motivation. Slowly, we made it to the top and back at my lodge.  I rested for a while and had myself freshen up before  getting ready for my dinner.  A local, offered a massage which I gladly accepted.  For days that I was exploring the highlands, receiving a foot massage felt so relaxing.  I fell asleep right after.

Tappia Falls

The sun was up when I woke up the next day.  When I opened the window of the lodge,  I was mesmerized of how the morning sunshine made the terraces even more adorable.  I could stare at the scenery all day, but I had to go.  After I had my breakfast, I bid goodbye to sir Vincent and head my way back to the saddle to catch the 9 am jeepney bound for Banaue.  

While on the road top loading , I couldn't contain the happiness I felt.  The three-day adventure from Maligcong to Batad was a journey I couldn't forget.  I felt lucky that I had the opportunity to visit these must visit places.  Others do not know what they are missing!  The long ride from Manila maybe butt-numbing, however, upon reaching these places I forgot the ordeal.  It was all worth it!  I wouldn't mind going back in the near future.  Perhaps I would venture up the popular Mt. Amuyao or trek to the other villages or simply relax and let the time pass by while I'm in sync with nature.

the "no nail house"

  

Travel Notes: Batad
			Actual Expenses
Sept. 11, 2016
	1100	Departed Bontoc	150
	1230	Arrived Banaue
	1240	Left Banaue (via motorcycle)	250
	1330	Saddle
	1350	Batad village
		Ate lunch	115
	1430	Trekked to Batad's higherst point & Tappia Falls	500
	1700	Back at the lodge.
	1830	Dinner	145
	1930	Massage	200
	1030	Lights off
Sept. 12, 2016
	0700	Wake up
	0800	Left the lodge	200
	0900	Left the saddle for Banaue (jeep)	150
	1000	Arrived Banaue
		Ate Lunch (Sanafe Lodge & Resto)	300
		Free time
	1900	Left Banaue for Manila	445
		TOTAL	2,455

           
Notes:

1.  No ATMs in Batad village.
2.  There are a number of homestays and accommodation will never be a problem even without reservation.
3.  Public jeepney to Batad from Banue departs at 3 pm. while from Batad to Banaue departs 9 am.
4.  Motorcycles, jeepneys and vans can also be rented in going to Batad from Banaue.  
5.  Ohayami and CODA line buses ply the Manila-Banaue route. On line ticket reservation are available.



                

Northern Escape: Maligcong

September 12, 2016, was declared a regular national holiday in observance of the Muslim celebration of Eid'l Adha.  This falls on a Monday and would mean a long weekend. Immediately, I planned for a sweet escape up north.  I had been missing the scent of the pine trees and the cold temperature of the highlands lately.  My initial plan was a Sagada-Bontoc-Banaue route but ended up dropping Sagada.  I was worrying that it would  be like an amazing race with little time spent on each place there by less enjoyment.  While having my breakfast in Baguio, I decided that I'd go directly to Bontoc then to Banaue, after.  I've been to Sagada so it was not a hard decision to make.

After I had my breakfast, I took a taxi to slaughter house terminal.  The first bus bound for Bontoc had just left when I arrived so I waited for the next trip scheduled at 6 am.  It was thirty minutes past five in the morning on my watch.  I took advantage of the waiting time to look for homestays in Maligcong thru the internet.  Most of the blogs suggested Suzette's Homestays, so I sent a message to the owner.  I received a reply immediately but unfortunately, the homestay was fully booked for that day.  I begged if I could still stay for a night and that it would be just fine even if it would mean sleeping on a hammock or on the floor.  I told her that I was on my lonesome. She then sent a positive reply.  Yehey!

the view along Halsema highway

The bus left as scheduled.  The sun was up and the surrounding was bright.  As expected and what is normal in Baguio and the rest of the Cordilleras, the temperature was low. While I was in the bus, I had to close the window because the air was cold.  I tried taking a nap but I just can't.  Looking outside, I can't help but be awed of the beautiful scenery. Mountains after mountains, ridges after ridges, pine trees after pines trees, vegetable farms after vegetable farms, rice terraces after rice terraces.  It was just a beautiful sight right before my very eyes!.  These  were exactly the scenery I've been missing and wanting to see.   My camera had to be put on work early.  Halsema highway while very scenic, will also make you hate if you have motion sickness.  This highway that took me to Bontoc is a long and winding one!  After hours and kilometers of traversing, it had me almost puking many times.  I had to stop moving and I had to close my eyes to combat the motion sickness.  I made it to Bontoc by eleven thirty without throwing up.  Thank God!

the view from my homestay

The jeepney bound for Maligcong was about to leave when I got to the terminal.  It was already full of passengers but there was still a space on top.  It was just fine with me, even if there was a vacant seat inside I would still ride on top.  I love top loading whenever I'm in the Coldilleras.  The roads up north especially in the Cordilleras are very scenic and one can appreciate that even more while on top of the jeep having a 360 view. The road to Maligcong was no exception - winding up the mountains with pine trees all around and with a good view of the town proper of Bontoc.   

Mt. Fato's trail

  

After an hour, I reached Maligcong and Suzette's homestay.  Maligcong is a barangay of Bontoc located above the mountains.  The homestay was on a narrow hilltop opposite to a cluster of rice terraces.  I was welcomed by no less than Ms. Suzette - the owner.  She asked if I had my lunch to which I quickly responded with a no.  I was served with a cup of rice, a soup and chicken adobo.  Ms. Suzette was very accommodating and she made me feel at home.  We exchanged conversations while I was devouring the food.  She helped me arranged my hike to Mt. Fato and Mt. Kupapey.  Since I was alone, I was joined to one of the groups staying in her house.  I didn't need to shoulder alone but share with them the fee for the guides.  

Mt. Fato's summit

After my lunch, there was no more time to spare even for a short rest. The hike to Mt, Fato was scheduled at 2:30 pm so I have to prepare.  I put on my trekking shoes and had my hydration pack filled with water.  After saying a little prayer, we left the homestay.  I would consider the hike to Mt. Fato,  an easy one.  Assaults were gradual and there were trees to provide shade.  We had a relax pace, stopping at some points of the trail where the view was a splendor.  After an hour of trekking, we arrived at the peak.  A good view of Maligcong and the nearby mountains can be seen.  There were boulders too, where one can climb for personal satisfaction - death defying selfies.  The cluster of rice terraces was a sight to behold too.  Pictures were taken here and there including a  picture of the group before descending.  

My trip up north has actually a dual purpose - enjoyment and training.  I wanted to visit Maligcong and Batad and enjoy what the these places have to offer but at the same time, I wanted a little training in preparation for an up coming trail races.  The terrain of the Coldillera is a good training ground.  So with these in mind, I descended a head of the group and did trail running all the way to the cluster of rice terraces.  A dog joined me and served as my guide.  I scaled the rice terraces, aiming to reach the village on top, however it was far than I expected.  I had to stop and head back before it gets dim.

scaling the rice paddies

             

Wake up call was at 3 am, for us to have enough time for the trek up Mt. Kupapey just in time for the sunrise.  After a light breakfast, everyone was ready and all set for the trek. Surprisingly, it was not a cold morning.  Head lights on, off we go starting by the road that lead us to the jump off - a cemented path by the side of the rice paddies.  We gradually ascended with a relaxed pace, stopping when needed.  Nothing much that caught our interest along the trail as it was still dark.  After an hour or so of trekking, we reached the summit.  It was during this time that we felt the low temperature. Our guides were kind enough to lit a bonfire where we gathered around to warm our bodies.  We're an hour early before the sunrise and the first group to arrived.  

the sea of clouds

As the dark slowly faded, a sea of white clouds emerged which sent excitement to all of us.  By the time the other groups started to arrive, we found our perfect spot.  Everyone was in joy seeing the view right before all of us.  As the sun slowly rises over the mountains, the sea of clouds was revealed even more. A grandeur scene it is! What a treat from the outdoors!

the magnificent sunrise

After snapping some photos, I made my way down.  Training mode was on again.  It felt good to run early in the morning.  Going down, I had a glimpse of the once dark surrounding.  Pine trees all around and I could now appreciate the beauty of Mt. Kupapey even more.  I had a swift descent and by 7 am, I was back at the homestay.     

              

Maligcong rice terraces

Fang - Orao village

Travel Notes: Maligcong
			Actual Expenses
Sept. 09, 2016
	2400	Departed Manila (Cubao) on board Genesis bus	445
Sept. 10, 2016
	0430	Arrived Baguio.  Ate breakfast
		Ate breakfast	100
	0530	Arrived Slaughter house terminal (taxi)	50
	0600	Left Slaughter house terminal via Rising Sun bus	220
	1130	Arrived Bontoc
	1200	Left Bontoc for Maligocong via Jeepney	20
	1300	Arrived at Suzette's homestay
		Ate Lunch	120
	1430	Trekked Mt. Fato (2 guides @ 300 each)	80
	1530	Reached summit
	1600	Descended.  Visit the rice terraces
	1800	Back at the homestay
	1930	Dinner	120
	2100	Lights off
Sept. 11, 2016
	0300	Wake up call
	0330	Started trek to Mt. Kupapey (2 guides @ 500 each)	100
	0500	Reached summit
	0600	Sunrise viewing
	0630	Descent. (Trail run)
	0700	Back at the homestay.
	0800	Ate breakfast	120
	0830	Paid lodging.  Fixed things.	300
	0900	Ride the jeepney to Bontoc.	20
		TOTAL	1,695

Notes: 

1.  Ms. Suzette's contact # 0915-546-3557
2.  Trail up Mt. Fato and Mt. Kupapey is easy.  Recommended for beginners.
3.  Mt. Fato guide fee is 300 pesos while that of Mt. Kupapey is 500 pesos.
4.  Advance reservation should be secured with the homestay especially on weekends.
5.  Homestay served/cooked meals but should also be arranged in advance.
6.  Lights - off is strictly at 9 pm in Suzette's homestay.