September 12, 2016, was declared a regular national holiday in observance of the Muslim celebration of Eid'l Adha. This falls on a Monday and would mean a long weekend. Immediately, I planned for a sweet escape up north. I had been missing the scent of the pine trees and the cold temperature of the highlands lately. My initial plan was a Sagada-Bontoc-Banaue route but ended up dropping Sagada. I was worrying that it would be like an amazing race with little time spent on each place there by less enjoyment. While having my breakfast in Baguio, I decided that I'd go directly to Bontoc then to Banaue, after. I've been to Sagada so it was not a hard decision to make.
After I had my breakfast, I took a taxi to slaughter house terminal. The first bus bound for Bontoc had just left when I arrived so I waited for the next trip scheduled at 6 am. It was thirty minutes past five in the morning on my watch. I took advantage of the waiting time to look for homestays in Maligcong thru the internet. Most of the blogs suggested Suzette's Homestays, so I sent a message to the owner. I received a reply immediately but unfortunately, the homestay was fully booked for that day. I begged if I could still stay for a night and that it would be just fine even if it would mean sleeping on a hammock or on the floor. I told her that I was on my lonesome. She then sent a positive reply. Yehey!
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| the view along Halsema highway |
The bus left as scheduled. The sun was up and the surrounding was bright. As expected and what is normal in Baguio and the rest of the Cordilleras, the temperature was low. While I was in the bus, I had to close the window because the air was cold. I tried taking a nap but I just can't. Looking outside, I can't help but be awed of the beautiful scenery. Mountains after mountains, ridges after ridges, pine trees after pines trees, vegetable farms after vegetable farms, rice terraces after rice terraces. It was just a beautiful sight right before my very eyes!. These were exactly the scenery I've been missing and wanting to see. My camera had to be put on work early. Halsema highway while very scenic, will also make you hate if you have motion sickness. This highway that took me to Bontoc is a long and winding one! After hours and kilometers of traversing, it had me almost puking many times. I had to stop moving and I had to close my eyes to combat the motion sickness. I made it to Bontoc by eleven thirty without throwing up. Thank God!
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| the view from my homestay |
The jeepney bound for Maligcong was about to leave when I got to the terminal. It was already full of passengers but there was still a space on top. It was just fine with me, even if there was a vacant seat inside I would still ride on top. I love top loading whenever I'm in the Coldilleras. The roads up north especially in the Cordilleras are very scenic and one can appreciate that even more while on top of the jeep having a 360 view. The road to Maligcong was no exception - winding up the mountains with pine trees all around and with a good view of the town proper of Bontoc.
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| Mt. Fato's trail |
After an hour, I reached Maligcong and Suzette's homestay. Maligcong is a barangay of Bontoc located above the mountains. The homestay was on a narrow hilltop opposite to a cluster of rice terraces. I was welcomed by no less than Ms. Suzette - the owner. She asked if I had my lunch to which I quickly responded with a no. I was served with a cup of rice, a soup and chicken adobo. Ms. Suzette was very accommodating and she made me feel at home. We exchanged conversations while I was devouring the food. She helped me arranged my hike to Mt. Fato and Mt. Kupapey. Since I was alone, I was joined to one of the groups staying in her house. I didn't need to shoulder alone but share with them the fee for the guides.
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| Mt. Fato's summit |
After my lunch, there was no more time to spare even for a short rest. The hike to Mt, Fato was scheduled at 2:30 pm so I have to prepare. I put on my trekking shoes and had my hydration pack filled with water. After saying a little prayer, we left the homestay. I would consider the hike to Mt. Fato, an easy one. Assaults were gradual and there were trees to provide shade. We had a relax pace, stopping at some points of the trail where the view was a splendor. After an hour of trekking, we arrived at the peak. A good view of Maligcong and the nearby mountains can be seen. There were boulders too, where one can climb for personal satisfaction - death defying selfies. The cluster of rice terraces was a sight to behold too. Pictures were taken here and there including a picture of the group before descending.
My trip up north has actually a dual purpose - enjoyment and training. I wanted to visit Maligcong and Batad and enjoy what the these places have to offer but at the same time, I wanted a little training in preparation for an up coming trail races. The terrain of the Coldillera is a good training ground. So with these in mind, I descended a head of the group and did trail running all the way to the cluster of rice terraces. A dog joined me and served as my guide. I scaled the rice terraces, aiming to reach the village on top, however it was far than I expected. I had to stop and head back before it gets dim.
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| scaling the rice paddies |
Wake up call was at 3 am, for us to have enough time for the trek up Mt. Kupapey just in time for the sunrise. After a light breakfast, everyone was ready and all set for the trek. Surprisingly, it was not a cold morning. Head lights on, off we go starting by the road that lead us to the jump off - a cemented path by the side of the rice paddies. We gradually ascended with a relaxed pace, stopping when needed. Nothing much that caught our interest along the trail as it was still dark. After an hour or so of trekking, we reached the summit. It was during this time that we felt the low temperature. Our guides were kind enough to lit a bonfire where we gathered around to warm our bodies. We're an hour early before the sunrise and the first group to arrived.
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| the sea of clouds |
As the dark slowly faded, a sea of white clouds emerged which sent excitement to all of us. By the time the other groups started to arrive, we found our perfect spot. Everyone was in joy seeing the view right before all of us. As the sun slowly rises over the mountains, the sea of clouds was revealed even more. A grandeur scene it is! What a treat from the outdoors!
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| the magnificent sunrise |
After snapping some photos, I made my way down. Training mode was on again. It felt good to run early in the morning. Going down, I had a glimpse of the once dark surrounding. Pine trees all around and I could now appreciate the beauty of Mt. Kupapey even more. I had a swift descent and by 7 am, I was back at the homestay.
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| Maligcong rice terraces |
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| Fang - Orao village |
| Travel Notes: Maligcong | |||
| Actual Expenses | |||
| Sept. 09, 2016 | |||
| 2400 | Departed Manila (Cubao) on board Genesis bus | 445 | |
| Sept. 10, 2016 | |||
| 0430 | Arrived Baguio. Ate breakfast | ||
| Ate breakfast | 100 | ||
| 0530 | Arrived Slaughter house terminal (taxi) | 50 | |
| 0600 | Left Slaughter house terminal via Rising Sun bus | 220 | |
| 1130 | Arrived Bontoc | ||
| 1200 | Left Bontoc for Maligocong via Jeepney | 20 | |
| 1300 | Arrived at Suzette's homestay | ||
| Ate Lunch | 120 | ||
| 1430 | Trekked Mt. Fato (2 guides @ 300 each) | 80 | |
| 1530 | Reached summit | ||
| 1600 | Descended. Visit the rice terraces | ||
| 1800 | Back at the homestay | ||
| 1930 | Dinner | 120 | |
| 2100 | Lights off | ||
| Sept. 11, 2016 | |||
| 0300 | Wake up call | ||
| 0330 | Started trek to Mt. Kupapey (2 guides @ 500 each) | 100 | |
| 0500 | Reached summit | ||
| 0600 | Sunrise viewing | ||
| 0630 | Descent. (Trail run) | ||
| 0700 | Back at the homestay. | ||
| 0800 | Ate breakfast | 120 | |
| 0830 | Paid lodging. Fixed things. | 300 | |
| 0900 | Ride the jeepney to Bontoc. | 20 | |
| TOTAL | 1,695 | ||
Notes:
1. Ms. Suzette's contact # 0915-546-3557
2. Trail up Mt. Fato and Mt. Kupapey is easy. Recommended for beginners.
3. Mt. Fato guide fee is 300 pesos while that of Mt. Kupapey is 500 pesos.
4. Advance reservation should be secured with the homestay especially on weekends.
5. Homestay served/cooked meals but should also be arranged in advance.
6. Lights - off is strictly at 9 pm in Suzette's homestay.
